Tactical Guide: Army Construction (Work in progress)

Just beginning the campaign? Ask your questions here

Moderators: Jackal, Moderators

Post Reply
User avatar
Nastyogre
MegamekNET Moderator
Posts: 4134
Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 4:46 am

Tactical Guide: Army Construction (Work in progress)

Post by Nastyogre » Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:12 pm

This is how I think. Do I always win? No. Fairly often? Yes. Do I almost always lose close? Yes. A mix of building and gameplay to those rules.


1. Vehicles are vulnerable especially Hovers. Taking more than 1 is almost ALWAYS a bad idea. Sure you can do 2 bigger tanks and do a camp lance. What if you run into a Jagermech AND a Blackjack. Oops, can you say immob and/or Turret locked? Ran into that last night. Damn near lost a game to a weak DC player.

2. Min/Maxing is often a big risk. Sure the UberPixies is nice. Remember: Virtually every world is worth more than any 1 unit. Win 1st, Destroy (not try to salvage) key enemy units 2nd Preserve your own units 3rd Salvage Dead Last. Uberunits will often die if they are caught by a force of units that are balanced and are close in BV. 1 Phx and 3 Firestarters will hunt down an Uber Phx pretty readily because the UberPHX will not have strong enough support to keep those 4 more balanced units off of it and it will get kicked down.

3. Balance is the way to go. 4 units in close Base BV (levels skew things of course) 1 LRM or other long range fire support unit. 1 Hole puncher and a Flanker or a couple of generalist units will put up a strong fight vs almost anybody. Your fight won't be about does your trick unit or tactic work but your ability to manage your heat and to hit and be hit mods. That is much easier to do. I repeatedly see us complain about my DFA or my backshots or my kick didn't land. When I ask for more info it turns out your whole game hinged on landing a kick and in the process you exposed that unit to an entire armies worth of firepower OR worse, you attempted the kick when you had the possibility of being kicked back or kicked by another unit. Don't play for the 1 big round. Its trying to win a war in 1 battle. It didn't work for Japan in WWII and it doesn't work here most of the time.

4. Bias your armies towards armor and firepower. Look at the units. Calculate the damage they will average and how much heat they generate to do so. People poo poo Shad-H's but at optimal range (exactly 6) they can generate 19 points of damage with an average of 15 (assuming all hit but that won't happen) All that with no heat and carrying 85%+ of the max armor. A Griffin will generate only 1 point more maximum and as an average 16 points. But that overheats the unit . To stay heat neutral, a Griffin's damage is only about 12. Sure the Griff Jumps further and its range band is more consistent but the Shad is more flexible and less vulnerable up close.


5. Think about what your opponent is going to do in response to what you do. If you run up to try and leg that warhammer what is your opponent going to do? If you haven't won init, he is going to move to the flank of your Wolverine and kick it back. What's more every unit is going to shoot that Wolvie in the hopes he goes down and then gets kicked by the other unit in response. WAIT until you have init. Be patinent. Move smartly (if you walk you should at least give a +1 mod to your opponent if you run a +2, if you have run for +1 or walk for +0 you probably made a bad move) Pounce when the time is right.


6. Empty those LRM bins! I see time and again a player that runs into a force that they have a unit that can out range the entire enemy force. What happens? People get too excited and they close with the urbie camp lance in 4 or 5 turns when they could have let their Valkyrie salvo for 12 turns before their opponent even SEES their other three units. So you don't play your game, you play your enemies game by rushing headlong into the teeth of AC 10's 20's and other Heavy weapons.

7. Play YOUR game. If you are setup to Sit back and salvo your opponent. Do that. Don't rush in. You have 12 or 16 or 24 LRMs USE THEM! USE THEM ALL! If you have 4 Whammies. Blast them. Don't run up to kick. Orions are Mid range Units, not Brawlers. Battlemasters are Brawlers, not snipers. If you opponent wants you to shoot an enemy unit by making it a target, its probably because a unit that is more important to their strategy is only 1 number more difficult to hit OR is badly damaged and he wants to reposition or evacuate it. Play your game and kill that unit you started on.

8. Kill the vulnerable target. That 3/4 Wolvie might be 40% of the opposing BV but that Centurion is slower and easier to kill. If you eliminate the easier kill, then the big BV unit is that much easier to destroy and perhaps force the autowin then. Just going after the Big BV unit is often unsuccessful because it is so skilled and perhaps larger on average than the rest of the opposing force, you may not be able to destroy it.



Units that are questionable due to heat and/or armor considerations.
Centurions (136 armor on a 50 ton mech? Ammo placement lends to booms)
Dervishes, (Sorry Fahr) fast with lrms but overheating is a constant problem and they carry only 120 points of armor with some ammo in the ARMS!
Trebuchets. Also 120 points on a 50 ton mech, but at least the Trebby can unload its full LRM load in only 8-10 turns depending upon heat and movement consdierations.
Phoenix Hawks: I see people Open up with the LL and the Meds after Jumping... um can you say overheating by 10+? You virtually shut the unit down. Range bracket EITHER the LL or the Med Lasers almost always and never after a jump.
Riflemen: 120 Armor on a 60 ton mech. Has poor heat management. UNLESS you realize that only 1 LL should ever be fired (except in desperation or on very easy and low risk shots) and the AC 5's are there to manage that heat.
Jaegermechs: 96 Armor on a 65 ton mech. Its good for vees and bug and should rarely if ever be fielded above 4000 BV anything else is suicide
Crusader-R's Heavy on armor but they carry a ton of ammo. Leg placement of SRM's limits firepower if you want to kick. The LRM ammo being the only thing in the LT and RT means that you shouldn't let your opponent sniff anything at short range until your LRM ammo bins are empty
Archers: Firing both Primary Weapons while standing still overheats by 2. Doing more than Walking and firing with an archer is a fools gambit. It has the armor and the ammo to cut loose with 1 lrm rack (average 12 damage) every turn with 2 on easier hit chances for a long time. Then its 70 tons of punching and kicking.




Mechs I see misused:

Valkyries: While those LRMs won't hit light much, they will hit meds. Play these up in BV as a BV sink and a good lrm salvo vs bugswatters that have leveled and are playing a bit above their intended BV
PHX: & Chamelons Overheated, exposed and isolated, Great FLankers and good bullies at lighter BV's Still only 128 points of armor. Easy enough to take down
TANKS of all kinds. They do not stand up like mechs. A demolisher, Devastator or Rommels are just targets at higher BV if your opponent has any longer range weapons. 1 Bulldog or Goblin isn't going to keep a Spider, a PHX and 2 Stingers off of you. They will swarm you
Hovers. Take 1 move it last always unless it really is never going to get close by that I mean, not even really into med range of your opponents lrms
Centurions: Not brawlers, Mid Range fire Support and Bodyguards for missile boats
Griffins: Overheated and not meant for kicking if you can help it.
Ostsols and Ostrocs. Great Light brawlers or Bullies for mediums. But they can't do it alone, send a friend or wait for the guns to do their work.
Dervishes: Overheated and exposed to enemy while still carrying ammo
WLF: Over Estimated and played way to high in Bv. They can't take on a Wolvie and win not alone.


Think about how you build and use your units. Build strong, balanced armies and fight hard. If you are going to build a "trick: force. Sell out to it. 3 Wolves and some long range unit. Not just 1 wolvie with a 3 Piloting for a single shot a good kick.


LOW BV forces:
So, you have come across forces with 2 spiders, a peggy and a vtol… It tore you to pieces. You don't have 2 Spiders and an OTT. How do you combat this? Simple… BIG TANKS!!
“Tanks?” you ask? “Really? I thought tanks were a liability on the battlefield because they lack durability when compared to mechs?”

This is true. The difference here is the significant amount of armor and weapons that tanks carry when compared to a mech. Mechs carry a lot more BV than tanks do. So a light mech is in danger when confronted by a tank with a big gun and two or three tons more armor than that mech. Many lighter mechs cannot survive a hit from a large laser or PPC without suffering a breach. AC 20’s will completely amputate limbs and side torsos. Most lights under 35 tons are destroyed if they take an AC 20 to the Center Torso.
Mobility forces are designed to get you out of position and subject you to attack to which you have a hard time responding. If you reduce the game to one of die rolls and who can do critical damage to the other, you are taking away the biggest advantage the Jumpy forces have. Your units don’t rely on speed, so if you are reduced in speed or even immobilized, it does not mean as much to you as if a mech loses an arm, or a leg

So, if you want to have an army designed to handle these “Hit and Run” style forces (I call them Jump Away and kick forces) how do you design such a tank force.
1st. Five units. This is especially true with the Miliatas. Why? Flexibility and the ability to bring varied units.

2nd KEEP IT TIGHT! Do not go ranging off with your units, you need to keep them together so they can support one another. Do not let any unit range more than 5-8 hexes away from your grouping of units. Your opponent will almost assuredly be able to outmaneuver you. Your strength is in outgunning and out-armoring your opponent significantly.

3. Make them Come to you. If they have range weaponry, they may be able to get better targeting numbers than you can because of the mobility of mechs. You should be able to outgun them because of your volume of fire. You want them to try and play this game. If they don't have range... now its just a rush and pray situation for them.

4. Use the field wisely. Find terrain to limit your opponents approach if possible. Barring that stay to a map edge. Not right on the edge, but a hex or two off. This should limit your opponents avenue of approach.
5.Focus your fire. Destroying or crippling a unit is your goal. Just damaging a unit is not going to give you the advantage you need to survive the coming series of kicks and short range weapons fire.


Suggested build.
4 Largish tanks. 1 brawler with an AC 10 or Large Laser or AC 20. 1 With PPC’s, LRMS or AC 5 or 2’s. 1 other general purpose tank that can fight at various ranges.
1 Mech. With some kind of longer range weapon and near max armor.
OR
1 infantry that can keep up with the cruising speed of the tanks.
Brawler Tanks: Goblin, Patton, Demolisher, Devastator, Po, Tokugawa, Behemoth, Von Luckner
Fire Support Tanks: Partisan all variants (LRM, AC 5 and AC 2), Pike, Schreck, Bulldog LRM, Rhino Fire Support Tank
General purpose Tank: Bulldog, Manticore,
Mechs: Valkyrie, Shadow Hawk, Panther, Phoenix Hawk, Centurion, Blackjack, Hermes II (quite good as a kick threat for it’s BV) Clint, Hachetman. A good kick and armor for the BV are crucial.
Infantry: Anything that moves 3, though frankly even 2 will do since you won’t be moving much. They can be very useful for critseeking and helping to finish off damaged units that have gone down.


Tactics: Pair up the units. Big Guns go with the Range Tank. Keep the infantry close. These units are a big threat and are the units that your opponent will probably target.
General Purpose tank paired with the mek. These units are a little more willing to move to engage at optimal ranges. They shouldn’t range more than 1 or two turns of reverse movement from the Big Guns.

User avatar
Lone Wolf
Posts: 50
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:34 pm

Re: Bug Hunting Armies

Post by Lone Wolf » Sun Apr 29, 2012 9:19 am

Just a quick addition:
If you can, better make sure to have a longranged Energy Gun in an army like that or at least something with plenty of ammo like a partisan LRM.

The "better" players will try draw out the game long enough for you to run out of ammo. And if they have a LL or PPC on a fast mech they might eventually succeed with that tactic. It´s boring as hell as it involves long rounds of sniping at long or even extreme range but it works.

Regards

Lone Wolf

User avatar
Nastyogre
MegamekNET Moderator
Posts: 4134
Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 4:46 am

Army Building 101

Post by Nastyogre » Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:57 pm

This is how I think. Do I always win? No. Fairly often? Yes. Do I almost always lose close? Yes. A mix of building and gameplay to those rules.


1. Vehicles are vulnerable especially Hovers. Taking more than 1 is almost ALWAYS a bad idea. Sure you can do 2 bigger tanks and do a camp lance. What if you run into a Jagermech AND a Blackjack. Oops, can you say immob and/or Turret locked? Ran into that last night. Damn near lost a game to a weak DC player.

2. Min/Maxing is often a big risk. Sure the UberPixies is nice. Remember: Virtually every world is worth more than any 1 unit. Win 1st, Destroy (not try to salvage) key enemy units 2nd Preserve your own units 3rd Salvage Dead Last. Uberunits will often die if they are caught by a force of units that are balanced and are close in BV. 1 Phx and 3 Firestarters will hunt down an Uber Phx pretty readily because the UberPHX will not have strong enough support to keep those 4 more balanced units off of it and it will get kicked down.

3. Balance is the way to go. 4 units in close Base BV (levels skew things of course) 1 LRM or other long range fire support unit. 1 Hole puncher and a Flanker or a couple of generalist units will put up a strong fight vs almost anybody. Your fight won't be about does your trick unit or tactic work but your ability to manage your heat and to hit and be hit mods. That is much easier to do. I repeatedly see us complain about my DFA or my backshots or my kick didn't land. When I ask for more info it turns out your whole game hinged on landing a kick and in the process you exposed that unit to an entire armies worth of firepower OR worse, you attempted the kick when you had the possibility of being kicked back or kicked by another unit. Don't play for the 1 big round. Its trying to win a war in 1 battle. It didn't work for Japan in WWII and it doesn't work here most of the time.

4. Bias your armies towards armor and firepower. Look at the units. Calculate the damage they will average and how much heat they generate to do so. People poo poo Shad-H's but at optimal range (exactly 6) they can generate 19 points of damage with an average of 15 (assuming all hit but that won't happen) All that with no heat and carrying 85%+ of the max armor. A Griffin will generate only 1 point more maximum and as an average 16 points. But that overheats the unit . To stay heat neutral, a Griffin's damage is only about 12. Sure the Griff Jumps further and its range band is more consistent but the Shad is more flexible and less vulnerable up close.


5. Think about what your opponent is going to do in response to what you do. If you run up to try and leg that warhammer what is your opponent going to do? If you haven't won init, he is going to move to the flank of your Wolverine and kick it back. What's more every unit is going to shoot that Wolvie in the hopes he goes down and then gets kicked by the other unit in response. WAIT until you have init. Be patinent. Move smartly (if you walk you should at least give a +1 mod to your opponent if you run a +2, if you have run for +1 or walk for +0 you probably made a bad move) Pounce when the time is right.


6. Empty those LRM bins! I see time and again a player that runs into a force that they have a unit that can out range the entire enemy force. What happens? People get too excited and they close with the urbie camp lance in 4 or 5 turns when they could have let their Valkyrie salvo for 12 turns before their opponent even SEES their other three units. So you don't play your game, you play your enemies game by rushing headlong into the teeth of AC 10's 20's and other Heavy weapons.

7. Play YOUR game. If you are setup to Sit back and salvo your opponent. Do that. Don't rush in. You have 12 or 16 or 24 LRMs USE THEM! USE THEM ALL! If you have 4 Whammies. Blast them. Don't run up to kick. Orions are Mid range Units, not Brawlers. Battlemasters are Brawlers, not snipers. If you opponent wants you to shoot an enemy unit by making it a target, its probably because a unit that is more important to their strategy is only 1 number more difficult to hit OR is badly damaged and he wants to reposition or evacuate it. Play your game and kill that unit you started on.

8. Kill the vulnerable target. That 3/4 Wolvie might be 40% of the opposing BV but that Centurion is slower and easier to kill. If you eliminate the easier kill, then the big BV unit is that much easier to destroy and perhaps force the autowin then. Just going after the Big BV unit is often unsuccessful because it is so skilled and perhaps larger on average than the rest of the opposing force, you may not be able to destroy it.


9. If you can't get into range with your weapons and need to close. EVADE!!! Victors and such should always be evading or hiding until you can get close enough to bring your Doomcannon to bear.



Units that are questionable due to heat and/or armor considerations.
Centurions (136 armor on a 50 ton mech? Ammo placement lends to booms)
Dervishes, (Sorry Fahr) fast with lrms but overheating is a constant problem and they carry only 120 points of armor with some ammo in the ARMS!
Trebuchets. Also 120 points on a 50 ton mech, but at least the Trebby can unload its full LRM load in only 8-10 turns depending upon heat and movement consdierations.
Phoenix Hawks: I see people Open up with the LL and the Meds after Jumping... um can you say overheating by 10+? You virtually shut the unit down. Range bracket EITHER the LL or the Med Lasers almost always and never after a jump.
Riflemen: 120 Armor on a 60 ton mech. Has poor heat management. UNLESS you realize that only 1 LL should ever be fired (except in desperation or on very easy and low risk shots) and the AC 5's are there to manage that heat.
Jaegermechs: 96 Armor on a 65 ton mech. Its good for vees and bug and should rarely if ever be fielded above 4000 BV anything else is suicide
Crusader-R's Heavy on armor but they carry a ton of ammo. Leg placement of SRM's limits firepower if you want to kick. The LRM ammo being the only thing in the LT and RT means that you shouldn't let your opponent sniff anything at short range until your LRM ammo bins are empty
Archers: Firing both Primary Weapons while standing still overheats by 2. Doing more than Walking and firing with an archer is a fools gambit. It has the armor and the ammo to cut loose with 1 lrm rack (average 12 damage) every turn with 2 on easier hit chances for a long time. Then its 70 tons of punching and kicking.




Mechs I see misused:

Valkyries: While those LRMs won't hit light much, they will hit meds. Play these up in BV as a BV sink and a good lrm salvo vs bugswatters that have leveled and are playing a bit above their intended BV
PHX: & Chamelons Overheated, exposed and isolated, Great FLankers and good bullies at lighter BV's Still only 128 points of armor. Easy enough to take down
TANKS of all kinds. They do not stand up like mechs. A demolisher, Devastator or Rommels are just targets at higher BV if your opponent has any longer range weapons. 1 Bulldog or Goblin isn't going to keep a Spider, a PHX and 2 Stingers off of you. They will swarm you
Hovers. Take 1 move it last always unless it really is never going to get close by that I mean, not even really into med range of your opponents lrms
Centurions: Not brawlers, Mid Range fire Support and Bodyguards for missile boats
Griffins: Overheated and not meant for kicking if you can help it.
Ostsols and Ostrocs. Great Light brawlers or Bullies for mediums. But they can't do it alone, send a friend or wait for the guns to do their work.
Dervishes: Overheated and exposed to enemy while still carrying ammo
WLF: Over Estimated and played way to high in Bv. They can't take on a Wolvie and win not alone.


Think about how you build and use your units. Build strong, balanced armies and fight hard. If you are going to build a "trick: force. Sell out to it. 3 Wolves and some long range unit. Not just 1 wolvie with a 3 Piloting for a single shot a good kick.

fahr
Posts: 818
Joined: Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:13 pm
Location: Beeville Tx

Re: Nasty's Army Building 101

Post by fahr » Sat Aug 25, 2012 7:59 pm

No apology needed, I ususally tell people not to use dervishes. I have a knack for them, but even still, they don't win by themselves, they need the proper support, they are a harraser, they stand off and fire while other units attract the fire. they seem like a nuisance rather than a threat, and so don't get targeted like other support units, but they can lay down a lot of damage over a longer game.

heat management is key with ANy unit, but here's how it's done on a Dervish.

at long range, run or walk, fire both LRMs
at medium range but not in danger, walk for +2, fire 2 LRMs and one SRM (empty those bins)
--- alternate firing the srm every other turn - heat nuetral
at medium range but in danger, Jump away for 5, fire ML and 2 SRMs (heat +2)
--- if this continues, next round fire just srms (4 heat 2-8 damage vs 3 heat guarunteed 5 damage)
at close range fire ML, ML, SRM and run -or- jump away and fire ML, SRM

you should never be in close range if you still have LRMs left, it only takes 12 rounds to empty the LRMs. while ammo booming is still a concern, once the LRMs are empty, there is a lower chance, ammo in the arms means that there are a lot of other crits to hit in the arm before the ammo, and the arm ususally comes off before the ammo crit happens (in my expeirience) as long as you are not closing too soon. this unit is a harrasser not a brawler.

you should always carry infewrnos too deal with pixies and other heat sensitive meks, hitting them for 8 heat can ruin there day. but again, only after LRMS are gone.
It's hard to feel sexy when you wake up in a pool of your own blood.

Enforcer
Posts: 58
Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 7:44 am
Location: Near Washington, DC

Re: Nasty's Army Building 101

Post by Enforcer » Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:19 am

PXH-1D is much better than the other varieties... Jumping for 6 and firing the large laser gets you +2 heat. Jumping for 6 and firing both mediums nets you 0 heat. This means that you have 2 large laser shots and unlimited medium shots before you have to worry about heat. When it does come around, you can either max-run and fire the large, or jump 6 and fire only one medium to cool off.

CRD-3D is also much better than the original. It loses the MGs and downgrades the SRMs to four-packs so it can carry 4 extra heat sinks. This means that, while it won't excel at any particular task, it's good fire support in the opening rounds with its LRM-15s and a good brawler later, when you can fire the leg-mounted SRMs and punch with both arms to try for the headcap or ammocrit that you've been looking for.

The -D variants are almost all along the same lines. Give 'em a try some time.
Image

User avatar
BLOODWOLF
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2017 2:32 am

Re: Tactical Guide: Army Construction (Work in progress)

Post by BLOODWOLF » Tue Dec 26, 2017 3:17 pm

What is considered a "balanced" force?

Just started and having been trying to follow the advice of 1 hole-puncher, an LRM unit, and then flankers or general purpose mechs but, dont have anything really great at the start. I have some heavy and assault mechs but, am avoiding making the pitfall other new players have made I seen on these forums of going with heavies and assaults right off the bat and going broke. I dont want to do that so have been sticking with mediums mainly.

4K BV with 4-5 units mainly mediums, doesnt seem to be working out. CC will send a force of 7 units with manticores and a few infantry maybe a AC20 or dual AC10 tank for ambushes. So, try to instead go for around 3k BV and can put up a good fight for 10-15 turns but, just doesnt seem effective (realizes the force is not the only factor for determining a win but, I'm getting better....I think ).

So what are some general guidelines for force building a new unit, what to buy, what force strategies will you most likely be able to pull off in the beginning to try and pull for?

Erk
Posts: 72
Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2017 10:19 pm

Re: Tactical Guide: Army Construction (Work in progress)

Post by Erk » Tue Dec 26, 2017 8:32 pm

Edited because SO MANY TYPOS.

When starting out brand new, here's what I recommend:

(1) Avoid 3.8k to 4.3k. Why? This is where the variance happens. You could be facing 2 Thunderbolts and 2 medium tanks or you could be facing 4 Phoenix Hawks. These are similar BVs.

(2) For now, always use 4 units. I know it is boring. I know it is "standard" - but I recommend it due to point 3, below.

(3) When you are a 'vet' you don't need to worry about BV so much. You just know if the units are decent at certain BVs. When you are first starting out, build an army of 4. Divide this BV by 4. This is your BV/x (in this case 4). This tells you "what kinda of units am I most likely to face here?" If your BV/x is 600, you're facing either light 'mechs or crap medium 'mechs and/or decent medium tanks and/or crap heavy tanks. If your BV/x is 1300, you know you're in good to premium heavy 'mech and assault tank territory.

(4) Use combined arms. I don't mean pure "BV sink" here - I mean things like Bulldogs, Manticores, etc. They're solid units. They're low BV. They increase the variance of your game (due to higher crit chances), but you're willing to take some RNG variance (and both "luck" wins and "luck" losses) for now.

(5) Generally try to use 'mechs. In a 12 v 12 game, tanks are VERY good. In a 4 v 4 they might or might not be. Think about a 40-ton unit. Sure, your BV is higher with a 'mech. But you also have a free large laser (range 0-1) that the other guy does not. This is your kick.

... nutshell version:

Physicals are king. If you are having severe trouble, there are two "newbie-friendly" ways to go with army construction. One: out-armor the heck out of them. This usually involves 1-2 tanks for every 'lance' of 4 units, regardless of unit size. Two: out-speed the heck out of them. You'd be shocked how often a well-used Cicada or the like can leg a heavy or kill a tank by patiently kicking the same leg again and again.

... final thought:

If your goal here is to get awesome, sort your player list by "elo". Start at the top, and PM people for games. Elo does not directly equate to skill (we don't play enough games to be highly statistically significant due to small server size, but it is still statistically significant on a moderate level) but it gives a rough idea. Every time I play Guillotine-X, ripper, McMadMax, Rushvin and a few others, I learn something about my game. ASK them for games. You'll get hammered. After the game, ask them what you did that needs improving. Most players will tell you things they observed.

Use fast 'mechs. They're harder to use. But once you learn how to use fast 'mechs (and the power of the magic ranges - like 6), those lessons literally apply to every single unit. You will be surprised how fast you get better.

This is going to sound strange, but you can also PM me on the server when I'm on - I literally spend hours a week talking about nothing but army construction and general tips for using units. I'm always happy to add another person to my list of folks I shoot the breeze with.

User avatar
BLOODWOLF
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2017 2:32 am

Re: Tactical Guide: Army Construction (Work in progress)

Post by BLOODWOLF » Tue Dec 26, 2017 8:52 pm

Will do. Lately I've been making two armies:

#0 Chameleon (hole-puncher), Treb(LRM unit), Clint & Hermes as my flankers/general purpose
#1 Crab or Wolverine (hole-puncher), 4X(LRM unit), Clint and Cicada (flankers/general purpose)

Before I would try and keep all the units within +/- 1 Walk MP of eachother like Ogre suggested here or in another guide but that would always put me into that 3.8 and 4.3k BV range or outside the spread with my starting units.

So Im thinking I need to stay around 3k but at the same time NOT try to field junk.....I think I do have some junk. I will PM and screenshot my hangar tonight when im on around 8pm CST.

User avatar
Nastyogre
MegamekNET Moderator
Posts: 4134
Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 4:46 am

Re: Tactical Guide: Army Construction (Work in progress)

Post by Nastyogre » Tue Dec 26, 2017 9:05 pm

Erk knows what he's talking about. I really appreciate somebody else understanding the concept of average BV. It's how to tell what you are likely to face. It also shows you the ranges of what you might face. It will give you some idea if what you might face in a min/Max force too.

One can sell out too much to average BV. A specialist force might take you. You should be able to compete though.


Lrms sub 4k can be challenging. Many mech based armies will be fast enough to be a difficult shot.
Lrms vs vehicles are often very effective. Though of they are setup for a range duel you may struggle.

Build on you basic skills. Movement, ranges, heat management. Army building is important but is meaningless most of the time if you move foolishly and overheat constantly.

User avatar
BLOODWOLF
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2017 2:32 am

Re: Tactical Guide: Army Construction (Work in progress)

Post by BLOODWOLF » Tue Dec 26, 2017 9:18 pm

Yeah i usually do not go over 4 of the max heat and even then thats only if I have 7 or less TH the enemy. And took your "do not walk for less than +1(3hexes) and do not run for less than +2(5hexes) tip to heart. Jumping i try not to unless i can move the 5 hexes for the +2 and break even with the +1 for jumping to attack me. Unless there is a woods hex and i can break even with only jumping 3 hexes.

And try to use the terrain to block the LOS to my unit except for one to isolate it from the group and keep me from getting blown away in one turn. And then the hug the rabbit tip if he has a fast unit close enough that it can get behind me no matter where i move to, punish him for it by not having a defense mod if he wants to still get behind me.

Post Reply